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Ruth McRae (right) and (left to right) Kenneth, Hazael, Sherrill and Brandon Collins bring soul food to the table at their Aberdeen restaurant.

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The Heart of Soul Food

History is written on the table. Tragically, slavery created soul food, a combination of garden vegetables and “leavins” from the big house. The master’s family ate cuts “high on the hog” rather than feet, knuckles and intestines (chitlins).

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