I have to wonder if Jim Dodson truly respects barbecue (Feb. 5). He managed to disparage barbecue across the states and failed to even touch on the true essence of barbecue.

When barbecue should always be neutral and a common denominator, he has turned it political. Barbecue is not about the type of meat or the sauce. Barbecue is about fragrant cured wood: Hickory coals yield smooth rich flavor, mesquite burns clean, and sharp and light fruit woods add a subtle sweetness.

Barbecue is always about patience, not just building a fire, but letting that fire burn down to coals. Only then is it time to slowly roast and smoke tenderness into tough but flavor-rich, inexpensive meats. Enough patience slowly transforms the fat into a rich emollient that moistens and makes the meat succulent. Barbecue is independent and if left alone will melt in your mouth.

For good barbecue, you only have to follow its wafting aroma that freely crosses state lines. True Texans always serve the sauce on the side and let the brisket stand as the lone star.

Down on the bayou, Louisianans dine like kings with succulent pork shoulder and red pepper vinegar. In the dead center of Atlanta, the smell of barbecue will tell you no matter your origin, home is where the heart is.

And here at home in North Carolina, Mr. Dodson, I do believe you are over-thinking it. Barbecue should never be made controversial. It should be simply enjoyed, as the good Lord intended.

Ellen Marcus

Pinehurst