Early summer peaches get lots of attention but the ones available now at farmers markets and grocery stores are the best I’ve had in years.

Of course I ripen them in a brown paper bag with a black-spotted banana (to hasten ripening) until they are soft and indecently sweet. A quick dip in boiling water facilitates slipping skins off.

These super-sweet white or yellow, cling or freestone peaches deserve last hurrah preparations. If you haven’t made peach shortcake yet, do: a simple extra-large homemade biscuit (add a few tablespoons of sugar to dough), split, filled with peaches and topped with softly whipped cream is a dessert to remember. I like to stew peach slices in spiced apple cider until very tender and the cider is reduced. Spoon this over toasted bakery pound cake and/or vanilla ice cream for another standout.

A few bruised or overripe peaches, peeled, chopped and sprinkled with maple syrup (let mixture stand at room temperature for an hour to release juices) Make a summery topping for French toast. Another memorable dessert: make a batch of 8-inch crepes (impressive but easy, with any recipe). Spread warm crepes lightly with whipped cream cheese. Roll crepes around thinly sliced peaches. Sift confectioners’ sugar over roll-ups.

Perk up a pork, poultry or fish meal with peach salsa: Peel three or four ripe tomatoes and an equal amount of ripe peaches by the boiling water method. Cut into chunks. Add a seeded, chopped fresh jalapeno or a tablespoon (or less) of chopped jalapenos from a can or jar. Stir in ¼ cup tomato or orange juice. Simmer until fruits are soft, stirring often. Raise heat and boil off liquid if too much accumulates. Season with salt and a scant teaspoon of sugar. Serve this flavorful salsa over brown rice or couscous to your visiting vegetarian, who won’t miss the barbecue a bit.

Contact Deborah Salomon at debsalomon@hotmail.com.