One Potato, Two Potato, Three Potato — Mash!
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Potato is a fightin’ word to Irish descendants who want to forget the tragic Potato Famine.
Understandable, but don’t discard the baby with the bath. Keep the colcannon, the boiled and the mashed made from what North Carolinians called “Ahrsh” (Irish) potatoes. Don’t be put off, either, by elegant, expensive little fingerlings, Russian Blues, Red Thumbs and Pink Pearls.
“I couldn’t survive without potatoes, personally or business-wise,” says Alan Riley, grandson of Ireland and owner of Dugan’s Pub in Pinehurst.
Riley plans a spud-studded menu for St. Patrick’s Day.
The truth is that man could live by potatoes alone. Maybe not happily, as Vincent Van Gogh pictured in “The Potato Eaters,” his dark, dour depiction of a poor Dutch family at mealtime. But this underrated nutritional powerhouse sustained the rural Irish until a fungal blight in 1845 withered the crop for several seasons. Peasant families, ignored by the British government, died of illness and starvation — or fled.
Nearly 2 million Irish citizens immigrated to the United States during the famine.
Still poor, they continued to rely on potatoes.
Americans put the meat in the meat-and-potatoes cuisine. As a side dish they were mashed, boiled or baked. Then deep fried, skillet-browned or turned into salad.
Mashed potatoes became a comfort food icon after the mom who mashed them rejoined the work force. Restaurants fueled the flame with cheddar, garlic and other variations. Instant and ready-to-eat staved off the hunger at home.
Let the art not die.
Perfect mashed potatoes are hardly a slam-dunk. Preparation is multi-step, with pitfalls.
The best mashers were just-dug red or white-skinned until the advent of Yukon Gold. To peel or not is the first hurdle. Potato skins have a good, earthy taste. Start with leaving skin on a few potatoes, peeling the rest. For the most intense flavor, potatoes should be steamed (in a steamer basket) until very tender, or cooked in a small amount of salted water until very soft.
Temperature is crucial. Cooked potatoes absolutely must be kept hot during the mashing process or else they will be a glutinous mess.
To ensure a velvety, lump-free texture,y pot set over very low heat. (Or mash dry potatoes thoroughly but quickly with a hand masher.) Heat whole milk or light cream with butter or margarine in microwave until butter is almost melted. Conscience will determine the amounts. Whip the milk and butter into the potatoes (in pot, over very low heat) with an electric hand mixer until desired consistency. Season with sea salt and white pepper.
Conveniently, mashed potatoes may be made ahead. Pile into a casserole and set aside. Bake for 20-30 minutes at 350 degrees or until peaks are brown.
For a contemporary colcannon, start with cold mashed potatoes. Saute a thinly sliced leek (white and light green parts) and a little shredded cabbage in butter until wilted but not brown. Fold a handful of chopped parsley leaves into mashed potatoes. Spread a thick layer of potatoes over the vegetables in skillet. Cover skillet and cook over medium heat until underside is brown. Break up potato cake with a spatula and continue browning the rough chunks for a few minutes. Serve with horseradish sauce: 1-2 tablespoons prepared horseradish mixed into ¼ cup, each, light mayonnaise and light sour cream.
For a luscious potato soup: Bake four large potatoes until very tender. Simmer a sliced leek (white and light green parts) in 6 cups best-quality chicken broth. Lift out leek with slotted spoon. Cool broth to lukewarm; scoop flesh from two hot baked potatoes and puree in blender with soup. Return to pot; add leeks and flesh, in chunks, from remaining potatoes. Stir in ½ cup heavy cream, season with sea salt and white pepper and heat gently.
On St. Patrick’s Day only green will do. Make a batch of stiff mashed potatoes. Cook a package of frozen petite peas until soft and drain. Puree peas in blender with about ¼ cup warm milk or cream. Whip pureed peas into hot mashed potatoes with hand-held electric mixer. Sprinkle with chopped parsley leaves. The next day, stir a beaten egg into leftover green mashed potatoes. Form into patties, brown in butter and enjoy a hair of the dog that bit the leprechaun.
Contact Deborah Salomon at debsalomon@hotmail.com.
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Comments
NCgirl 3 years, 2 months ago
In honor of the potato, from an NCgirl with Irish/Scottish heritage, here are a couple of verses from a song by a Celtic Rock Band (Barleyjuice) that I saw at the Highland Games last summer:
potatoes potatoes potatoes boiled and fried potatoes potatoes enough to make you cry potatoes potatoes potatoes piled high potatoes with whiskey on the side
potatoes in the morning, potatoes in the night potatoes in the evening, potatoes by the light mcteagle, mick jagger, mcnugget, we agree potatoes and beer are good enough for me
"I'll be enjoying my potatoes with a tall dark BEER tonight!"
And here is an Irish Toast to you all:
May the winds of fortune sail you, May you sail a gentle sea. May it always be the other guy who says, "this drink's on me." Cheers!!!
Mtnneer88 3 years, 2 months ago
@DS A blog about taters...really...nothing better to write about here in Moore County. Taters make a mighty fine vodka too! Let's give equal print to NC grown sweet taters...if we must discuss taters at all!
ASU88 3 years, 2 months ago
@NCgirl Cuzz I hope you enjoyed your "barley juice" tonight. Looks like no one cares about taters here in Moore County! I like mine fried, smothered and covered... don't tell DebS. ;) Let's start a Beef blog...DebS "vegtables are what food eats" You can't enjoy a tater without a slab of grade A angus beef! Take care NCgirl and I look forward to blogging in unison with your thoughts in the future!
debsalomon 3 years, 2 months ago
If I wrote a story about blueberries would you inject beef into it? Just kidding...Of course potatoes go well with meat, if you can afford steak at $7.99 a pound. I have better places to put my money (and my fat grams and calories). Hope y'all had a wonderful St. Paddy's Day that included green beer, green bagels and, of course, green vegetables.
Mtnneer88 3 years, 2 months ago
"Inject beef"?
Mtnneer88 3 years, 2 months ago
Deb, I like blueberries soaked in rum and covered in heavy whipping cream with a slice of homemade poundcake! So no I will not "inject beef" into your story! You must love the food network because that's the topic of most of your blogs? @expatriate, "Beef blog....pick up line"? Where would you use that pick up line at ? And who would you use it on? You are a tad to happy writing about beef injection comments and pick up lines? Too much couch time with your cat?
NCgirl 3 years, 2 months ago
Hey Deb...!
I have to admit...I love a good blueberry/balsamic reduction over a beer-can chicken. GOOD STUFF!!!
I do want you to know, that I, obviously eat MEAT, but I do balance it out with the veggies!!! Love Good Food...Especially When Enjoyed With Good Friends! Bon Appetit!
debsalomon 3 years, 2 months ago
For NC Girl: I never try to convince a person to give up meat. Just let the facts (and organizations like the American Cancer Society and the American Heart Association) speak for themselves. Sometimes, though, when moderation doesn't work, cold turkey is the only answer. After a while you don't miss the meat at all. With the money saved, I can afford to buy the best other things, like $4.99 for a celery root at Fresh Market (outrageous!) but what a difference the intense flavor makes in soups and other dishes. Dozens of great pasta sauces are meatless. And I stand by the veggie burger, either the frozen ones by Boca and Morningstar Farms, or served at Burger King. After a few, you can't tell the difference, especially dressed with lettuce, tomato, onions and pickles. Also, you don't have to declare yourself vegetarian. I just say "I don't eat meat..." but occasionally, if I'm preparing a meal for somebody else, or eating at a friend's house, I do. To each his own...deb
wicker 3 years, 2 months ago
Now I'm hungry. Beer can chicken is soooo good.
NCgirl 3 years, 2 months ago
@wicker - Cooked my 1st BC Chick last year. Two things I loved about it: Tastes GREAT & since the BC Chick is done on the grill, my oven stays cleaner :-)
Oh BTW.....Whole Fryers are on sale at Lowes Foods for $0.59/lb. I picked up one yesterday.