The Big Loop: Back Side Takes Us Down the Outer Banks
- Print print this page
- Discuss Comment, Blog about
Advertisement
The Fin and Feather Hotel hunkers down on the causeway on U.S. 64 from Manteo to Nags Head. It’s right at the top of what I call The Big Loop, a circuitous ride from Southern Pines out to the Outer Banks and home again.
There is some grand fishing along the way in summer and early fall. In the winter, the duck hunting is hard to top, and if you’re into big game, the state’s black bear record is held by Hyde County, and white tail deer are so numerous that they are uncountable.
But hey, this is a fishing trip. Back to the Fin and Feather.
Embassy Suites it ain’t, but it’s located on the water and it’s easy to kick back on the deck outside your room, have a cold beer and maybe catch supper. If you are hauling a boat or canoe, there is a boat landing next to the motel. Talk about convenient.
If you can’t spend the night and want to keep on rolling, there is a must-see and do and that’s Sam and Omie’s, a local bar and seafood restaurant without equal. All the locals hang out there, and the seafood is unbeatable. Just writing about it makes me want to crank up the Cruiser and head up there to get a shrimp special.
The restaurant is located right off the intersection of U.S. 64 and N.C. 12, back on a side street. Ask anybody and they’ll point you in the right direction.
Now for the back side, or eastern side, of The Big Loop, and North Carolina’s famous highway 12 down the Outer Banks to Hatteras. This is an unforgettable ride, with the mighty Atlantic on the left and the Pamlico Sound on the right. It’s almost like being aboard a ship.
On the way, stop off at the Bodie Island Lighthouse and Visitors Center, park on the Pamlico side and meander down a small path to some fine fishing. Take your spinning outfit and prepare for anything. Some excellent puppy drum have been caught right from the bank.
You duck hunters, put Bodie Island on the list to hunt. It will take a permit, but they are relatively easy to get and well worth it. Just takes a little planning.
On down N.C. 12, after you cross the Bonner Bridge and Oregon Inlet is the Pea Island National Wildlife Preserve. Bird watchers from all over the world come to check out this place. By the way, you deep sea aficionados will want to stop at the Oregon Inlet Marina to inspect the boats and maybe line up a later cruise out to the Gulf Stream to try for yellow fin tuna. Unbeatable.
Now we’re moving. Down to Rodanthe, Avon and Buxton. In Buxton, pull over at the Red Drum Tackle Shop, buy yourself a cap and tell the guy behind the counter you want to go fishing. He’ll line you up with some good stuff.
Catch the free ferry at Hatteras, about a 45-minute ride over to Ocracoke Island, find the Ocracoke Harbor Inn, ask for a suite upstairs and prepare to kick back and watch a beautiful sunset over the same harbor Blackbeard used to frequent before he lost his head. The folks at the inn will also set up a fishing trip right from the hotel’s marina.
The island is one of my favorite places, and it wouldn’t surprise me if you decided to linger for a couple days. Time well spent. Lots of shops for the bride too, if she’s getting tired of riding.
On the way out of town, if you haven’t stopped there yet, have lunch at the Jolly Roger outdoor restaurant. Their bluefish sandwiches are as good as you’ll ever get.
Leaving Ocracoke, it’s wise to make reservations for the ferry to Cedar Island, about a two-and-a-half hour excursion. From Cedar Island, you’ll drive to Beaufort, the last stop on The Big Loop before you head across country back to Southern Pines.
Beaufort alone is a destination worthy of the adventure and will eat up some time. Try out the Beaufort Inn, a bed and breakfast right on the Intracoastal Waterway, a quite delightful stay.
Well folks, we’re done. But dove season is around the corner, which means duck season can’t be far away, and Yours Truly is already gearing up for a waterfowling trip around The Big Loop. I hope to see you on the road.
Contact Tom Bryant by e-mail at tom@thepilot.com
More like this story
Advertisement











Comments
Use the comment form below to begin a discussion about this content.