Cost-wise, condiments are killers. A jar of fancy barbecue sauce, a bottle of marinade and an Asian concoction will eat up a ten-dollar bill. Some may be worth it, most fade into the cooking process.

But take-out and restaurant meals have spoiled American palates to bold, exotic flavors. Most can be approximated by mixing components.

Barbecue sauces: Start with a big jar of plain store-brand barbecue sauce. Have on hand, to use all season, liquid smoke (for "mesquite" flavor), hot sauce, brown sugar, honey, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce (cheapest brand), cider vinegar, apple jelly, garlic and onion powders, dry mustard, prepared horseradish or wasabi powder. Buy spices in bulk at Nature's Own. Borrow bourbon, rum and sherry from the bar. Fortify barbecue sauce with ketchup and create your own flavors.

Asian sauces: Almost all commercial brands are based on soy sauce and many contain MSG. Create a base with equal parts chicken broth from granules or a bouillon cube and least-expensive low-sodium soy sauce. Thicken with cornstarch. Simmer with chopped garlic and ginger, fresh or from a jar, a touch of sugar or honey, a dash of hot sauce or crushed red peppers, a dash of toasted sesame oil which is expensive but potent: a teaspoon flavors several cups of sauce. Finish off with a splash of sherry. Use this on stir-fried broccoli, asparagus, mung bean sprouts, green beans, snow peas. Marinate chicken, shrimp or salmon in it before grilling.

Salsas: Buy plain, chunky store-brand salsa (or canned zesty diced tomatoes) in desired hotness. For fruited salsas add (pick one) finely chopped peaches, kiwi, melon, crushed strawberries with a spoonful of corn syrup or fruit preserves. Or, add mashed black beans, chopped olives, tomato, cucumber, cilantro, sweet onion, corn kernels.

Chutney: Mix a large can of zesty diced tomatoes with an equal amount of chunky applesauce, a small can of whole-berry cranberry sauce, a small onion, grated and some finely chopped fresh fruit (peaches, plums, melon, apple, pear). Season with cumin and allspice. Simmer, uncovered until very thick, stirring often. Great with grilled chicken, pork, turkey burgers or over brown rice, for a vegetarian entre.

Salad dressings: Don't drown fresh summer greens in gloppy, costly bottled dressings. Save brine from pickles and olives; whisk with a basic olive oil, chopped garlic from a jar, freshly ground pepper. For an excellent creamy dressing, thin light mayonnaise with buttermilk, whisk in fresh or dried herbs, scallions, a pressed garlic clove and pinch of sugar. Enhance the classic Thousand Island (equal parts mayo and chili sauce or ketchup) with a sieved hard-boiled egg and a spoonful of pickle relish.

This way, not only will your condiments be cheaper -- they'll be yours.

Contact Deborah Salomon at debsalomon@hotmail.com.